A common concern for many people is hyperpigmentation (i.e. too much pigmentation) of the skin. This is generally related to over exposure to UV rays, pregnancy or aging in general. While it is almost impossible to completely reverse pigmentation it can be managed as long as the client is fully committed to homecare. The IonActive treatment is one way to combat hyperpigmentation of the skin by using ionisable oligopeptides that lighten dark patches.
What is an Oligopeptide?
Oligopeptides “are short chains of amino acids … linked via peptide bonds” (Biology Online Dictionary). One of many peptide variations, oligopeptides have “fewer members of amino acids” than polypeptides (usually between 2 and 40) (Biology Online Dictionary). In the IonActive formula the oligopeptide ionactive brightens the skin by helping inhibit pigmentation for a balanced skin tone.
Oligopeptide-34 Research – International Dermal Institute
The International Dermal Institute (IDL), from which Dermalogica was developed as a skincare brand, have studied oligopeptides for some time in relation to their skin brightening benefits. In particular, Oligopeptide-34 was identified as “…the most effective, non-hydraquinone skin whitener” (IDL Article). It works on the cellular level by “decreasing melanin synthesis” (IDL Article).
Other Key Ingredients
Aside from oligopeptides (6%) the oligopeptide ionative product also contains microencapsulated Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, which controls melanogenisis, and Magnesiam Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), which is a derivative of Vitamin C, to further enhance the brightening properties of the product.
Does it Work?
In a nutshell, yes it does. However, targeting pigmentation is not as simple as treating other skin concerns. Areas of hyperpigmentation can be lightened significantly in many cases, but it is not guaranteed to remain light. This is because once the skin cells have been stimulated to produce extra melanin it is not really possible to completely reverse the process. It can be managed however by regular treatments targeting pigmentation, such as the IonActive treatment, supported with consistent homecare and wearing a minimum of SPF30 all year round. Dermalogica’s range of PowerBright products also contain oligopeptides so are an ideal homecare solution for those clients whose main concern is pigmentation.
Exposure to the sun without the protection of an SPF will stimulate the skin cells to make more melanin, and thereby make pigmented areas darker.
It should be noted that areas of hypopigmentation (i.e. where areas of the skin are lighter than the surrounding skin) cannot be treated.
For more information contact us at the salon for advice: 01787 249595